This isn't New Labour's latest vote-winning attempt to help the homeless, but a showcase-cum-state-of-the-union report by the Ninja Tunes label into the art of the turntable. The "wheels of steel" aren't as revolutionary as they were, but spin masters Fink, DJ Food and Kid Koala attempt to prove that vital scratching and mixing didn't end with the 80s masters turned Ninja record company bosses, Coldcut. A shame, then, that there's so much conservatism around.

Fink mixes up hip hop and funk. It's nice, but when people from suburban white estates in south Leeds start throwing fingers, it's disturbingly close to The Fast Show's withering spoof, Jazz Club.

Praise, then, for Kid Koala. He isn't a bear, but the equally rare pop presence of a Canadian Chinaman. Eric to his Mum, the Kid (who's 24, but looks about 12) is both a showman and a real enthusiast. He winks at the crowd, mercilessly sends himself up and makes a welcome change from the bowel-churning egomania rife in DJ culture. More importantly, Koala is musically brilliant. His record collection is obviously highly desirable but it's what he does with it that counts, mixing all manner of fragments so that they don't sound quite like anything before. Occasionally he's joined by doppelganger DJ P-Love and at one point brings a full band, Bullfrog, and their congas, into the show. The irony of Koala's track Nerdball is obviously lost on the chin-stroking DJ Food, but maybe there's some sly mischief in that title, Meals On Wheels. One appetiser, a fabulous main course and one total pudding.

• Meals on Wheels of Steel plays at Sheffield University Student's Union (0114-222 8777) tomorrow, then tours