Food in England has become a vexed subject, particularly for people holidaying at home. It's supposed to be a major part of our holidays, but the horrors of mad cow disease and foot and mouth have done little for people's appetites. Add to this the fact that for many years offerings outside the main cities amounted to little more than rump steak and chips and it becomes clear that we don't revel in gourmet England as much as we should.

Hattie Ellis forges the history of food in England and a picture of its possibilities. She argues that the Reformation trounced much of the pleasure we took from food and that industrialisation in particular was the death knell for a gourmet tradition. She tries to restore the joy in food by highlighting some of the delights to be had from producers and restaurants who make an effort. What makes this a great travelling companion is the guide section. From Helsett Farm's ice cream in Lesnewth, Cornwall, to the thatched Star gastro-pub at Harome in Yorkshire, take it round England with you and wake up your tastebuds.

· Eating England by Hattie Ellis is published by Mitchell Beazley at £14.99.