Robin Denselow 

Senegal, the centre of the world

Doudou CissokoMomo restaurant, London Rating: ****
  
  


Now that the West African states of Senegal and Mali are recognised as centres of the global music scene, their most distinctive instrument, the kora, has become more than an exotic novelty. The local version of both the harp and the lute, it has embellished the work of many of the finest singers from the region, from Salif Keita to Baaba Maal. And kora virtuoso Toumani Diabate has demonstrated the instrument's versatility in experiments with flamenco musicians Ketama and award-winning collaborations with US blues hero Taj Mahal.

Doudou Cissoko is a Senegalese singer-songwriter and bandleader who uses his kora as the main backing instrument for his own gentle songs. Like so many other West African stars, Cissoko comes from a family of musicians, but has developed a distinctive style of his own, a decidedly laid-back Afro-European fusion.

Cissoko is best heard live, though it is difficult to find the perfect venue. The Kemia Bar, in the basement of London's Momo restaurant, should have been ideal. Cosy and intimate, with mosaic floors and rugs like some north African hideaway, it has served as an impressive showcase for new artists during recent months. The only problem is the clientele: some want to listen, others want to talk and be seen, and it was only when the latter were persuaded to keep quiet that Cissoko finally had the setting he deserved.

He started out solo, singing to his own kora-playing, and his intimate vocals, backed by delicate repeated phrases and sudden bursts of improvisation, were highly effective. He was then joined by his four-piece acoustic band: cello, double-bass, drums, and guitar from Dave Randall, best known for his work with Faithless and now Slovo. Their playing was mesmerising, making use of western influences but firmly rooted in the African past. Mariama, Cissoko's duet with Randall, revived a favourite from his father's repertoire, while the more rousing Kelefa was a tribute to an African king, for whom his grandfather had worked as a praise singer. Then came bluesy collaborations between kora and cello, and percussive passages from congas and African drums. Nothing too startling, but in his own laid-back way, Cissoko is exploring new possibilities for African music and his beloved kora.

 

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