Imagine! A French party, enjoying a picnic in Normandy, forced to borrow a corkscrew from an English tourist.

They didn't know I was English, of course - until I spoke. But before long, the wine was fuelling a multi-lingual discussion about the Battle for Normandy.

One old lady remembered the invasion. Her father survived, she told me tearfully, but the horror had driven him insane. I was reminded that, for countless thousands of her generation, Normandy will never be about cheese and gtes. And I was painfully aware of my own ignorance.

No excuses now, though. Then-and-now photos and a wealth of practical information make this an ideal compact guide to take along for the ride. But one unusual feature - the inclusion of dozens of eye-witness accounts - sets it apart from similar books.

They serve as more than text-breakers. They are powerful reminders that here was no picnic.